Paris is always Paris, especially when talking about fashion. It is here that the influences of fashion come together and unravel. The appointment with the menswear that closed yesterday has not disappointed the press and the insiders. If Milan had already thrown the seeds of the streetwear being replaced by the tailoring, the French fashion shows not only confirmed the trend, but they managed to overcome the dichotomy. So what to expect from Men’s collections for next winter? An update of the traditional dress codes, in over or slim volumes, with a clean silhouette, often with a rock or post-punk look and a care for shapes and details. And above all, a search for quality materials, with leather being the protagonist.
Celine and Paul Smith’s incursions, the feast of Hermès
Hedi Slimane with his Celine show closing Paris Men’s Fashion Week (one of the most anticipated events of this season) has had the merit of pulling the ranks of new tailoring. His collection is played on post-punk references from the 70s and the city of New York.On stage were full double-breasted with ankle-length trousers, tight ties, leather commando boots, leather suits and animalier inroads. The rock soul also transpires in the outfits at Paul Smith, who managed to overcome the concept of the iconography of countryside (the starting point was the discovery of a collection of Victorian riding jackets in a flea market, explained the designer) giving a more contemporary twist with the insertion of zips and faux red python. Hermès brought a feast of leather on the catwalk, while maintaining an extremely clean silhouette: leather pants, shirts and outerwear that light up the outfits and bags that are dressed in a metamorphic horse that becomes a dragon.
Balmain mixing, Loewe designing new cow boys, Dior Homme and the new wave
The punk soul of Balmain never fails. In the co-ed show, the mix of black and white prevails, with lots of leather, alternating with more classic fabrics like houndstooth, or bouclé stratifications. Among the most awaited events is Jonathan Anderson’s debut show for Loewe, belonging to LVMH portfolio of brands. Expectations have not been disappointed and, in addition to outwear garments in shearling and cashmere, among the cult pieces of the collection were the leather overpants recalling modern cowboys. At his second collection for Dior Homme, Kim Jones has been able to imagine a new wave for the menswear of the fashion house: starting from Dior Couture’s canons and trying to transfer them to the man, he imagined jackets and coats with a perfect cut to which are added scarves descending as a trail. On the catwalk were also spotted fur coats, big and small bags, backpacks and gaiters on ankle boots and shoes.
Thom Browne and Jil Sander’s research
The dichotomy between men and women was the leitmotif also for the oneiric tailoring of Thom Browne, the label that recently passed under the control of Ermenegildo Zegna Group: among the key elements, fur cuffs on the sleeves of the coats. Jil Sander, at her Parisian debut, explored the dualism between the classic codes of the male wardrobe and the constant search for the new, imagining tailoring and leisurewear in its soft forms. All enriched with a proposal of mini shoulder bags.
In the picture, from the left: Dior, Loewe, Hermès and Celine