After six years, Glenn Martens is stepping down as head of Diesel. This therefore frees up another slot in the whirlwind merry-go-round of appointments — and the resignations and dismissals that come with them — that we regularly cover in our reports. It is a sign of the times, observers and industry insiders say (the merry-go-round, that is, not Martens’ career): the fashion industry is looking for new paths to growth and, before anything else, the right people to pursue them. The spectacle is becoming frantic enough to make one’s wrists tremble. This is why we welcome the composure of Anne Wintour, who is said to be surprised, in her own way, by the speed at which new developments are unfolding. But not frightened by them.
Martens leaves Diesel
The Diesel collection shown in Milan during September’s Women Fashion Week has been Martens (pictured left, from LinkedIn)’ final one. His creative tenure, which began in 2020 with the mission — successfully accomplished, as owner Renzo Rosso acknowledges — of repositioning the brand in the public’s perception and in the wider fashion debate, is therefore coming to an end. It is not a painful break, unlike so many others. The Belgian designer is now expected to devote all his resources to Maison Margiela, which belongs to the same OTB group. But, pending official announcements, he leaves the fashion world’s behind-the-scenes observers with another position to speculate about: who will be Diesel’s next creative director?
Wintour’s composure
From her various positions at Vogue — where she was first editor-in-chief and is now global editorial director — Anne Wintour (pictured right, Shutterstock) has seen it all. Her analyses are anticipated, feared and respected. It is therefore reassuring that, while in Italy to promote the Milan edition of Vogue World, she told Corriere della Sera that she was not frightened by the speed of the changes taking place at fashion houses: “I’ve never seen so many changes in such a short period”.
The journalist is not prepared to make any bold predictions: “I think it is still too early to say how it will all end”. But above all, she points out that the fashion system feeds on novelty: “Our community thrives on change”. There are, however, a couple of developments she is particularly looking forward to. “I am thrilled, though, that Demna has joined Gucci. He will have an enormous impact”, she concludes. “And I am very interested to see what happens with the changes Miuccia Prada is bringing to Versace”.
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