Milan Fashion Week of “Italian courage and pride” ended on Sunday September 27, 2020. The fashion system has regained contact with the public, showing itself at its best and focusing on the quality of products. But also underlining the value of stylistic research and materials used. Each brand seems to have made a journey to rediscover its identity, through an important archival work, but of renewal too. Thus, the proposals for spring-summer 2021 have translated into a message of hope. A unanimous hope for the future, to look to 2021 with a positive outlook.
Quality at the center
The digital presentation of Tod’s, with the new stylistic guide by Walter Chiapponi, has conquered the public of professionals and not only. The tailoring and craftsmanship typical of the brand have been reinterpreted through contemporary codes. Suede Blazer for both him and her, soft shiny leather pants, perforated suede top. Among the accessories left their mark the new bucket bag to wear on the arm, and an “Oboe” shoulder bag in green snakeskin. Like belts, however, leather laces wrapped nonchalantly around the waist, and at feet beautiful beveled sandals with heels and plexiglass buckles. The use of pony leather on bags and shoes is back.
Contrasting elements build a hyper-feminine Sportmax collection. Technical materials and soft fabrics, dresses and leather tops that envelop the silhouette. Fitted jackets alternating with extra volumes, saturated colours and more neutral shades. The shapes are original, as in the case of the clutch obtained by mixing plastic, metal and leather. Or as regards to the thong sandals supported by a squared and padded structure, with very thin geometric heels. The bags are enriched with details such as piercing.
A message of hope
For the first time, Valentino had its fashion show in Milan instead of Paris, choosing a factory as location. In the new collection designed by Pierpaolo Piccioli, the lines are fluid but extreme: extra long or extra short, while the colours range from a nude palette, tone on tone between dress and skin, to touch some brighter brushstrokes proposed in bold combinations in the prints from Valentino archives. Rockstud are back on bags and shoes, the iconic studs now in a macro version.
Drome and Liberatore
Drome (the brand of designer Marianna Rosati) and Francesca Liberatore. Two different ideas of women, but both expressions of an evolving contemporaneity. A charm that is never trivial, a decisive, self-confident, exciting femininity. A wise use of leather for both outerwear and entire looks. Bold combinations, new cuts with a super current character.
Giorgio Armani fashion show was presented live on TV on La7. The show was preceded by a 20-minute video document who had as narrator Pierfrancesco Favino. The goal was to create a collection that was the expression of “timeless thoughts”, as the designer himself defined them. And the goal was reached through dresses and suits that embrace the recognisable classicism and elegance of the maison.
First of all, accessories
Pastel tones with colour accents, shades, transparencies and overlays. Fendi has focused on women’s and men’s accessories, of various shapes and materials. From the mini handbag in woven rope, to the more structured rigid trunk. From the leather and raffia baguette, to the perforated PVC handbag. From the baby carrier to even the wicker picnic bag. And again: soft leather clutches, squared document bags. Extensive use of charmes and among the novelties micro-bags covered with a veil or embroidered lace. There is no shortage of leather outerwear: shiny capes and jackets in perforated suede.
Dolce & Gabbana
The new collection entitled Patchwork Sicilia is a kaleidoscope of different cultures, styles and materials. A hymn to sustainable fashion, to reuse, to the use of archive objects that find new life by mixing them with novelties. The patchwork motif was also used in the construction of leather handbags with golden chains, and in the interweaving of multicoloured leather banners. Accessories are often among the few monochrome elements of the collection: in purple, yellow, white, antique pink or black leather.