From the heart of Pitti Uomo 110, Brunello Cucinelli has once again outlined his vision of luxury. After a decade of extraordinary expansion that brought growth of 45%, the founder of the maison spoke to MF Fashion and called for a new structure for luxury. No longer growth alone, but rather a balance between profit and purpose. Following record revenues in 2025 and with Giuseppe Tornatore’s film set for release in the United States, Cucinelli reflected on a system that, in his view, must rediscover harmony between economics and the human spirit, as well as between elegance and everyday style.
A new framework for luxury
According to Cucinelli, luxury is entering a phase of redefinition. After years of post-pandemic expansion, the market has become increasingly fragmented and is now seeking authenticity. “The major maisons have experienced exponential growth, but every cycle requires new energy, new names and new ideas”, the entrepreneur emphasised. He pointed to the need for a broader concept of sustainability — not only environmental, but also economic and human. His notion of a “Peace of Westphalia”, referring to the global settlement that ended the Thirty Years’ War in 1648, becomes a metaphor for a world in need of renewed stability following recent global turbulence. The Solomeo-based brand continues to achieve double-digit growth (+11.5% at constant exchange rates in 2025), but with the awareness that the future of luxury will be shaped by selectivity, identity and, above all, respect.
The elegance of fluidity
In Florence, the brand will present its Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection, which reflects this philosophy through garments that move away from rigidity. “A little less tailoring and many more separates. You can be sporty yet extremely elegant”, Cucinelli explained. Washed cotton trousers, pressed jeans paired with ties and structured jackets define the collection. Formality becomes fluid, everyday and refined. It represents a new idea of controlled naturalness, where details are what ultimately create the whole. It is a vision of fashion that echoes the words of Jean de La Bruyère, who wrote that fashion destroys what came before in order to make way for what follows. A cycle that continuously renews itself, driven by a desire for regeneration and a search for balance between profit and purpose.
Photo: Brunello Cucinelli
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