The tenth edition of Lineapelle Designers Edition took centre stage at the Leather Fashion Hub in Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa. From 23 to 25 September, nine extraordinary shows explored leather’s endless potential and versatility. From sustainable research and cutting-edge upcycling to sculptural tailoring and underground visions, the event confirmed the vitality of contemporary fashion and its ability to combine a rich manufacturing heritage with radical innovation. Here are the new visions shaping fashion.
New Fashion Visions
The first day opened with “What Was Distant Becomes One”, the collection by Bulgarian designer Edis Pala. His work ranged from the deconstructed volumes of contemporary tailoring to an innovative use of leather, playing with contrasts between matte surfaces, fluidity and perforated, mesh-effect constructions. Angelo Cruciani followed with a striking show for Yezael, balancing boldness and tailoring through leather Bermuda shorts, romantic lace, three-dimensional floral motifs and elegant jacquard suits enriched with red details and pearls.
The first day closed with “Tephra Vesuviana” by Naples-based brand Saman Loira. A sculptural and dramatic collection inspired by the power of nature, it brought together lava-like cracks, oversized outerwear, pleated bustiers and shades ranging from electric blue to volcanic orange, combining high-end Made in Italy craftsmanship with in-depth sustainability research.
Experimentation and Upcycling
The second day opened with art259design by Alberto Affinito and a “barefoot” show focused on pure experimentation and circularity, with 100% of the material recovered and reused. Fluid dresses, structured corsets, sheer layers and shades of sand, rust and black gave new value to leather scraps, transformed into striking accessories and details. Laboratorio Riciclo Pelle presented an incisive dark-romantic vision, obscuring the models’ faces with blindfolds to focus attention on reclaimed leather, asymmetric cuts, corsetry and lace-up skirts contrasted with ethereal veils and lace, all accompanied by a live performance from the band Esera. Closing the evening, Florania, led by Flora Rabitti, presented “Surfacing”, a radical underground aesthetic in which sculptural leather tops alternated with pleated ensembles, crumpled gauze, oversized hats and tights paired with studded Crocs.
The Elegance of the Future
The third and final day opened with DAVII by Davi Fernandes, who captivated the Leather Fashion Hub with a sculptural elegance based on direct draping. Black and white, sheer chiffon and lace were juxtaposed with leather outerwear and chunky boots. Simon Cracker then unveiled the “PUNKINDNESS” manifesto: a poetic rebirth of punk built around respect, memory and the reuse of deadstock leather and vintage garments. Dolls carried by the models, layered skirts and trousers, mixed-material Bermuda shorts and backless loafer mules shaped an unconventional and highly distinctive vision. The event came to a close with “Leather Like a Feather Vol. II – Il Cielo in una Stanza” by Demiurgo Leather Avantgarde. Drawing on the tanning expertise of Solofra, the brand lightened the material and transformed it into fluid volumes, glossy leather trench coats, relaxed suits and utilitarian elements worn directly against bare skin.
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