Lee and Slimane, Burberry and Celine: fates on thin ice

Lee and Slimane, Burberry and Celine: fates on thin ice

Numbers are the guiding principle, we know, and for fashion-especially in recent years, it’s never been truer. But numbers have a limit: that is, that when they try to represent the reality of facts, they do not take into account previous attempts made. Because fashion is first and foremost “an attempt“. When Burberry appointed Daniel...

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Luxury, crisis, China: here's why polarization is growing

Luxury, crisis, China: here’s why polarization is growing

Luxury is slowing, but not for everyone. The Chinese market is choosing which brands to reward, thus fueling the polarization forecasted by analysts. One of them, Flavio Cereda, manager of GAM, has been outspoken in saying which stocks will have a bright future. Specifically, there are 3: Cucinelli, Prada and Ralph Lauren. Here’s why. You...

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Darn China putting Tod's and Burberry's quarters down

Darn China putting Tod’s and Burberry’s quarters down

Darn China: Tod’s and Burberry are struggling in front of the Great Wall. In the first three months of the year, the British brand’s comparable sales in China fell 19%, the Italian group’s 21.1%. For both, leather goods basically held up. Negative performance for apparel at Burberry and footwear at Tod’s. Darn China In the...

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There's a crisis: relaunching Ferragamo will take longer

There’s a crisis: relaunching Ferragamo will take longer

Along with Burberry, Gucci (and Kering), the relaunch of Salvatore Ferragamo will take longer than expected. The goals announced by its CEO, Marco Gobbetti (to double sales to 2.2 billion euros by 2027), are increasingly distant. Especially after the first quarter 2024 results. Whatever the case may be, the Ferragamo family has confirmed Gobbetti as […]

The importance of identity in Burberry and Chane’s tumultuousness  

The importance of identity in Burberry and Chanel’s tumultuousness  

The tumultuousness (coming and already ongoing) of luxury brands speaks of the centrality of style and the importance of identity. Sticking to recent cases, on 15 May Burberry will announce its Q4 2024 results and analysts are not expecting anything good. According to Goldman Sachs and Morgan Stanley, the brand will drop by 13%. The...

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The expectations of a certain Made in Italy for 2024 are grim

The expectations of a certain Made in Italy for 2024 are grim

The crisis or the sluggishness of some of the high-end brands is hitting the supply chain hard. And the consequences can be seen on the expectations of a certain Made in Italy. The leather goods industry foresees a grim 2024. According to a survey conducted by CNA Federmoda on a sample of almost 600 companies,...

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Alarm sounds in China and markets expect luxury to come to a halt

Alarm sounds in China and markets expect luxury to come to a halt

The alarm is sounding in China. The rating agency Fitch, in cutting China’s sovereign credit risk from stable to negative, confirms the economy’s problems. This country’s growing fiscal deficit is “a major concern”. Beijing, which described the cut as “regrettable”, has also contracted debt to stimulate domestic consumption while grappling with the property crisis. Without...

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What if, for Piccioli & Co, there is not a new assignment?

What if, for Piccioli & Co, there is not a new assignment?

It is a hypothesis that looks very much like a provocation. It is not ours to make, but we gladly pick it up and relaunch it, because it stimulates important considerations and, above all, because it comes from an authoritative source. In fact, very authoritative. It is Vanessa Friedman, one of the best-known international fashion […]

Analysts wonder if Kering's tumble will affect luxury

Analysts wonder if Kering’s tumble will affect luxury

Will Kering‘s tumble pull luxury along or not? Because it is one thing talking about “slowing growth”, and quite another to record negative numbers. Insiders and analysts are trying to answer the question. The performance of the various brands depends on their exposure in China, where sales are cautious. And also, on the performance of...

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Three aspects of L Catterton's takeover bid for Tod's that are causing discussion

Three aspects of L Catterton’s takeover bid for Tod’s that are causing discussion

L Catterton’s takeover bid on Tod’s is causing discussion. First of all, analysts and pundits are questioning whether the deal’s price (EUR 43) is the right one. At the same time, they speculate on the scenarios. On the one hand, should the takeover bid fail, they argue, the delisting of Tod’s is certain, and the...

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To get new customers, luxury is considering payment in instalments

To get new customers, luxury is considering payment in instalments

Not discounts, but payment in instalments. This is the strategy of a certain luxury to broaden the customer base and meet aspirational consumers. The partnership between Scalapay and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (National Chamber for Italian Fashion, ed.) should be seen in this light as well. A collaboration that aims to promote more conscious,...

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Low volumes and high prices for the normalized luxury industry of 2024

Low volumes and high prices for the normalized luxury industry of 2024

Low volumes and higher prices. These are the two certain characteristics of the normalized luxury industry of 2024, which is the one experiencing single-digit growth after the post-pandemic boom. At least, that’s what the reports by BofA-Bank of America and Mediobanca state. This opinion is confirmed by other studies of the segment. The sample companies...

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Look out for excessively high prices: they suffocate aspirational consumers

Look out for excessively high prices: they suffocate aspirational consumers

Increasing prices could cause a hard stop for the leather goods segment. The homes of wealthy consumers were filled with handbags in the past few years, but now that prices have skyrocketed, they may prefer to buy jewelry. Generally speaking, analysts believe luxury brands will perform better than others in the coming period, but they...

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Some did better and some less: 5 financial statements show the current slowdown

Some did better and some less: 5 financial statements show the current slowdown

In a complex economic context for the luxury industry, not all companies are reacting the same way. The latest data published by the segment’s players show the general slowdown. Even when revenue grew, margins shrank. In any case, some did better while some struggled more than forecasted. 5 financial statements Richemont Sales during the 3rd...

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BofA: “2024 ruins the plans of brands looking to turn around”

BofA: “2024 ruins the plans of brands looking to turn around”

The brands performing strongly will slow, but will continue to grow, while the ones looking to turn their luck around will be impacted by the period. That’s why Bank of America recommends a defensive position when it comes to the attractiveness of the luxury industry on a global scale. Demand, especially in the first half...

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In 2024 designer labels will raise prices again: yes or no?

In 2024 designer labels will raise prices again: yes or no?

The New Year will bring new luxury price increases: yes or no? Insiders’ opinions are divided. There are those who predict a slowdown in the frequency of price increases, because many brands cannot go any higher. There are instead those who think that nothing will change, and that brands will continue to do so. Perhaps...

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Lights in the East: Hong Kong is reborn, Tokyo is record-breaking

Lights in the East: Hong Kong is reborn, Tokyo is record-breaking

With Europe and the US slowing down, the Asian market is gaining importance. In particular, the growing presence of Chinese tourists and the weakness of the yen are fuelling luxury sales in Japan. Meanwhile, Hong Kong, after years of suffering and thanks also to Louis Vuitton’s show (and soon, Dior’s), is back in the spotlight....

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Pattern: we have created a resilient supply chain, now we are strengthening it

Pattern: we have created a resilient supply chain, now we are strengthening it

“We are at the exact moment when the first phase of our history has ended and the second is beginning”. It could not, from a certain point of view, be otherwise, “since we are living through a historical period of change”. Luca Sburlati (left, in the photo), CEO of Gruppo Pattern, puts down on paper...

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Vuitton, Hermès, Chanel: the prices’ dance isn’t over

Vuitton, Hermès, Chanel: the prices’ dance isn’t over

The prices’ dance isn’t over. Some do it by raising them at a constant rate, such as louis Vuitton and Chanel. Others do it less often, but obtain the same result, such as Hermès, which is said to once again increase them in a few days. And then, some just raise them fast and by...

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Gucci's struggle: loses 4 positions in the Interbrand ranking

Gucci’s struggle: loses 4 positions in the Interbrand ranking

The circumstance of Kering group’s flagship brand, still in the middle of the general (and style) handover between Alessandro Michele and Sabato De Sarno, is complex. And Gucci’s struggle can also be seen in the results of Best Global Brands 2023. That is, the latest edition of the ranking compiled by Interbrand of the one...

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