Paris Fashion Week (running from 26 February to 5 March) is underway. The first to show their autumn-winter 2024 collections were Dior, with a collection inspired by Gabriella Crespi, celebrating the plural feminine and independence. And YSL, which presented a study on purity and nudity, inspired by the founder of the French fashion house. While […]
The 2023 revenue of 9 brands and groups shows that last year, also due to inflation (which raised prices), the real challenge wasn’t revenue but marginality. From Lanvin to Borbonese, we report on them one by one. The challenge of maintaining margins Lanvin Group 2023 was a “transition year”, says the group: preliminary revenue shows...
A deal to protect the leather goods system of Florence, which is currently suffering due to the slowdown of the luxury industry. A “System Pact” with the goal of minimizing the impacts on the chain, “to safeguard the know-how that makes the Florentine system so special”, explained in a press release Confindustria Firenze. The entity...
“The market will resume with new rules, dictated by the consumer-actor, who is increasingly the protagonist, and capable of preferring one good to another because it is produced in a circumscribed territory where ethics, sustainability and other values are at home. Some sort of PGI bag”. Luca Bortolami (in the photo), CEO of Tigamaro, a […]
Quality doesn’t (always) pay up. That’s the case for Italian shoes in Germany, which went from European powerhouse to sickly nation only focused on price. Germans have closed their wallets a while ago. They don’t spend and prefer saving. The result? The retail system is struggling, as chains go into crisis, bankruptcy and close their...
The winner of the 10th edition of the Craft the Leather contest comes from New York. The project, promoted by Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, involves international design schools and aims to foster innovation and artisanal production. Of the 8 participants this year, Balbina Brunell (in photo), from the Parsons School of Fashion […]
A new chapter for Italian Leather Group, tannery based in Monopoli (Bari). The local court has approved the Restructuring Agreement procedure started on May 4th 2023, which is a fundamental step to avoid the laying off of 70 employees in June 2024 (out of 200 total). Restructuring Agreement is approved Owner Kulch (active in the...
Starting April 15th, Zalando will remove its generic sustainability tags and claims, such as the images of leaves and trees. In their place, the e-commerce will need to provide detailed information regarding the product, such as percentage of reused materials. The push comes from the EU Commission, which proved to be determining in making a […]
The last round of trade fairs is over #Greatify. Micam, Mipel and TheOneMilano were held in Fieramilano Rho together with Milano Fashion & Jewels from February 18th to 21st of February: they closed with 40,821 visitors from all over the world. A “positive” result, according to organizers. Lineapelle, held at the same location (February 20-22)...
Fashion focuses on seduction. On Milan fashion catwalks, female sensuality is a common denominator that is expressed and declined in different forms. From the extreme elegance of Tom Ford to the gritty unruliness of MM6 Maison Margiela. From the revolutionary tailoring of Prada to the fun naïf mood of Moschino. Milan Fashion Week (20-26 February)...
Gucci’s second women’s collection, designed by creative director Sabato De Sarno, took place in the Carlo Macchi foundry in Milan. Sensuality returns, declined in materials and volumes. With a coup de grâce, the designer tries to go beyond last season’s quiet start, and gives life to a collection of lush petticoats, leather jackets, biker shorts […]
Leonardo Valentini closes the fifth Lineapelle Designers Edition (Milan, 20-22 February) with his “Baratto” (barter, ed.) collection, named after the 1979 song by Renato Zero. The designer, who has dressed artists of the calibre of Lenny Kravitz, Måneskin, Irama, Ghali and Rose Villain, brings to the catwalk a project that enhances fine leathers. Focusing on...
10 years in the name of leather. Dani, Veneto-based tanning group, celebrated at Spazio Lineapelle what is more than an anniversary. It presented its future training program in collaboration with IFM, Institut Français de la Mode, which has been running for ten years. A chance to showcase what has been achieved until now and what […]
Italy’s leather goods industry show a solid 2023 but a dark 2024. The research study conducted by Confindustria Moda in January 2024 reports that nearly half (47%) of those surveyed expects a drop in revenue during the first quarter of 2024, compared to the same period of 2023. Nearly 30% of companies believe the drop...
The value of leather for Hogan? “It’s a fundamental component for sneakers as well. It’s the basis for everything”, said the vice-president and CEO of Tod’s Group, Andrea Della Valle, while presenting the Fall/Winter 24/25 collection of Hogan (in Via Savona, Milan, on February 21st). Della Valle (in photo), president of the brand, also discusses […]
Moreschi’s production will no longer be done inside the historic site in Vigevano. The company will entrust it to “highly-specialized Italian laboratories”. Local media claims 59 jobs will disappear (out of 80) from the Vigevano site, which the company defines as “inadequate for the demand”. Management aims to double the number of stores (currently 25)...
There was traffic at the booths. Asian buyers hinting at the revival of eastern manufacturing, too. North American and British visitors comforting local markets as well. In the halls of the 103rd edition of Lineapelle, in short, there was a lot going on. From 20 to 22 February, 25,376 trade operators entered Fieramilano Rho, a […]
“It’s important that environmental sustainability we should pursue in Europe is compatible with social and industrial sustainability of the companies operating in Europe. Otherwise the continent turns into an open museum, or rather an industrial desert”, said Adolfo Urso, minister of Business and Made in Italy (on the right in photo). Urso spoke a few...
“Perhaps we do not realise that in 10 months the Deforestation Regulation comes into force: the risk is that it will turn into a nightmare for the leather industry”. Gustavo Gonzalez-Quijano, secretary of Cotance (the acronym representing the national tanning associations in Brussels), does not mince his words. Likewise Luca Boltri, deputy director of UNIC...
Diversification of markets, of proposals, of destinations. The economic situation is complex, but among the exhibitors at Lineapelle 103 (Fieramilano Rho, 20-22 February) there is reason to be confident. There is reason, moreover, to get back on track. “We are back at Lineapelle after years. We want to be there”, say Riccardo and Davide Poggetti...
