Menswear season is at our doors. The month of June will give the change to understand the state of men’s fashion and, more so, of the fashion system of the large international capitals. For now, let’s take our calendars out, the Anglo-Saxon environment doesn’t seem to be in excellent shape, as it is still searching for its identity. And so, its distance from Paris in particular, and also with Milan, is getting longer. The risk is that June, which is almost entirely dedicated to menswear, won’t stand together and had the intention of fractioning itself into two parts: the weaker first half and the second stronger half, so that all the main operators can be a part of the process.
New York Fashion Week Men’s will lead the dance. The fashion shows have been anticipated from July to June (same time as the cruise collection). But the calendar is rather lean: the shows taking place between June 3rd and 5th are less than 20, diluted inside events and catwalks dedicated to women’s 2020 collections: just a few years ago, the brands participating were about 90. The main problem is that there isn’t a sponsor. Almost no relevant brands are present: the only event worth mentioning is the ceremony dedicated to CFDA Awards, during which Tom Ford will take over the chairman role.
London Fashion Week Men’s will take its turn from June 7th to the 10th, and in this case as well now big changes have been announced in the schedule that showcases the usual names: the appeal for the event isn’t very global and is tied to British tastes and public.
After that, it is Italy’s turn, where the so-called long week has gained importance: June 11th to June 17th. In terms: the liaison between Pitti Uomo Firenze (June 11th-14th) and Milano Moda Uomo (June 14th – 17th). Salvatore Ferragamo’s show will take place at Pitti, among other special events (such as that of Givenchy and MSGM), while in Milan there will be 25 fashion shows and 21 presentations , accompanied by 26 events such as Prada’s (catwalk in Shanghai and presentation in Milan) and Gucci, which is hosting a cultural event lasting two days. Philipp Plein and Palm Angels make their comeback onto the scene, while the closing show will be done by Giorgio Armani, as it is tradition. The calendar is back to being full, confirming the overall positive moment of menswear. According to Carlo Capasa, president of CNMI (National Chamber of Commerce for Italian Fashion), “men’s fashion accounts for 39% of total fashion exports. If we only take in consideration menswear exported to non-EU countries, the percentage skyrockets to 55% of the total”.
The spotlight will be shining in Paris from June 18th to June 23rd: 60 fashion shows scheduled, 4 more than last year. All happening as Givenchy chooses to have its menswear show in Florence, and Saint Laurent’s defies tradition (having its fashion show in Los Angeles on June 6th). Some of the big shows: Off White, Valentino and Raf Simons on June 19th; Louis Vuitton, Rick Owens and Dries Van Noten on the 20th; Berluti, Jil Sander, Dior Homme and Balmain Homme on the 21st; and Hermès on the 22nd. Lanvin and Celine close the week on June 23rd.
In image: A/I fashion show by Ermenegildo Zegna at last year’s edition of Milano Moda Uomo (picture by Ermenegildo Zegna)