“Restless”. Fashion is shouting, with Tod’s, Versace and the stars of Milan Fashion Week, with its desire to get back on track, as if the echo of Adriano Pappalardo’s famous song resonated. We have reached the end of Milan Digital Fashion Week, Friday (July 17) the event was closed by the very much awaited Gucci’s streaming marathon, and Ermenegildo Zegna and Missoni’ presentations.
They have been days of pure creativity, where each brand has unlined the essence of its expression: craftsmanship, research, artistic inspiration and, of course, choice of materials. And leather is present, an irreplaceable timeless and precious element.
Tod’s, Versace and the stars
“Inside Tod’s Studio”. The brand from Marche has symbolically opened the doors of its laboratory to show the Pre-Spring 2021 collection precisely “where it comes to life”. In the movie, designer Walter Chiapponi illustrates the new creations for men and women. “The will to live, the lifestyle, the fun and the irony, all expressed with new technologies, with special shapes, with extreme craftsmanship”.
The look started from shoes, creating something special, such as the weavings made with strings instead of thread. “One idea of casual and elegance, where elegance and sportswear are ennobled and made super chic by the materials, the workmanship, the colour charts”. Lots of leather in both accessories and clothing, as Tod’s tradition dictates, and a meticulous attention to detail.
Dolce & Gabbana
The second physical fashion show of MDFW, after Etro’s, was that of Dolce & Gabbana. The brand presented the SS2021 men’s collection in a fashion show at Humanitas University Campus, a symbol of science. A hymn to beauty made in Italy with looks inspired by Parco dei Principi hotel in Sorrento, designed in 1960 by Gio Ponti. Majolica prints for sarongs, dressing gowns, shirts and jackets to pay homage to the Italian creativity and genius.
At feet, canvas espadrilles, metallic sneakers, soft moccasins or sandals with a wide leather band. As for accessories, mini bag to be worn around the neck or shoulder strap, reptile clutch or big bags in leather and raffia with a sense for holiday, denim bags with leather edging. The “plastic-free” shoulder bottle cage is also leather-made.
Versace presented Flash, a preview of the new collection, through the backstage of its new advertising campaign. Donatella Versace collaborated with popular singers, showing live the performance of Englishman AJ Tracey. In front of the artist, models were alternating wearing the mini-collection, while dancing (available from August). Absolute protagonist is the python effect on shades of blue for worker jackets and pants for him, and crop top and tight pants for her. A lot of black leather for accessories and shoes: from tall and voluminous hunkle boots, to fisherman’s hats, to mini round handbags. Belts with maxi gold Versace logo. Colour inserts: pastel pink and aqua green leather for handbags and décolletés.
Boldness did not abandon Philipp Plein’s style. His chromatic universe – usually marked by total black – has been enriched with lighter and softer colours. The black leather jacket, however, is always present, but it is alternated with sand-coloured leather jackets. In the collection, there is a shiny black crocodile leather jacket, but combined with a candy pink or white look. It is the designer himself modelling his garments and wearing many leather accessories: backpacks, shoulder bags, handbags and bags with a maxi chain shoulder strap.
Twins Dean and Dan Caten showed in a video the backstage of the filming for Spring-Summer 2021 pre-collection campaign. A show divided into two parts: the first dedicated to formal and tailoring style, with sparkling clothes accompanied by glossy leather shoes for him, and short suits in black leather for her. In the second, sportswear is the protagonist, with jeans, tracksuits, sweatshirts, windbreakers and blouses with a wide and comfortable cut.
In the photo, Tod’s, Versace and again Tod’s models