Sixty years of shoes: from Fabi to Manifatture Italiane and Dolce&Gabbana

Sixty years of shoes: from Fabi to Manifatture Italiane and Dolce&Gabbana

The Fabi family has celebrated sixty years of shoemaking (pictured), marking the anniversary of the footwear manufacturer that last year became Manifatture Italiane under the control of Dolce & Gabbana. On Saturday 20 December, the factory store at its headquarters in Monte San Giusto (Macerata) was dressed for the occasion, welcoming suppliers, partners, employees and political figures. With Emanuele Fabi, Brand Manager of Manifatture Italiane, we revisited the agreement with Dolce & Gabbana and the company’s future prospects.

Sixty years of shoes

The Fabi footwear company was founded in 1965 in Montegranaro (Fermo) by brothers Elisio and Enrico Fabi, together with their wives Gina and Vilia. Seven years later, the factory moved to the municipality of Monte San Giusto. On Saturday 20 December, it celebrated its 60th anniversary. “A historic milestone for a historic brand”, sums up Emanuele Fabi, Brand Manager of the Fabi and Barracuda labels and a second-generation member of the family business alongside Cinzia, Alessia and Flaminio. “We are full of enthusiasm for this new adventure under the Manifatture Italiane banner, but we must also thank the founders”. What is more, the third generation is on the way, with the young Aldo D’Autilio and Nicolò Fabi preparing to join the company.

Generational renewal

Speaking of young people, Fabi notes that since the pandemic “young people have been showing greater interest in this sector and are no longer impossible to find”. Today, Manifatture Italiane employs 200 people, “but we would need to hire more to manage generational turnover. After all, our secret — which is also the secret of all companies in the Marche district — lies in our skilled workforce and their expertise”.

Manifatture Italiane and Dolce & Gabbana

Emanuele Fabi also explains how the transition from Fabi to Manifatture Italiane came about. “We had been producing for Dolce & Gabbana for a year. To be honest, we had been approached by several investment funds. The maison was looking for a manufacturer, and we were looking for a partner. So the deal came together naturally and the negotiations were concluded quickly. I believe that consolidation will become increasingly important for the future of the sector. The first tangible benefits? We have improved our organisational structure. The company was already well organised”, he continues, “but D&G brought its expertise and allowed us to take another step forward”.

The production model

Most of the production is carried out in-house, with the support of local subcontractors and a Bulgarian company that has long been part of the Marche-based manufacturer’s supply chain. “It is a fully compliant, monitored and certified business. There are no issues on that front. If anything, the concern is that from 1 January 2026 Bulgaria will adopt the euro, and we expect costs to rise”. Manifatture Italiane will close 2025 with turnover of EUR 24 million, up from EUR 17 million the previous year. Growth prospects for 2026 are positive, also thanks to the markets served by the maison that controls the footwear company.

Simplifying production planning

Within the industry, there is ongoing debate about the difficulty—– and the opportunity — of running a footwear manufacturer that produces simultaneously for its own brands and for external luxury houses. Some entrepreneurs believe it would be better to choose one path and specialise. This is Emanuele Fabi’s view: “It is true that management is complex, but it is not impossible, especially when production quality is high — in other words, the same high standard for all the brands we produce. Moreover, the fact that luxury operates on earlier timelines than other brands helps to simplify production planning”.

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