2020 forced luxury to revise some of its codes, we know all about it. But now that the year of the great pandemic is winding down, Dior and YSL mark the first turnaround. It is true that Coronavirus imposes a certain gravitas, that is, a certain composure. But, each presenting their own collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director, and Anthony Vaccarello, her colleague at Saint Laurent, show the need for a different mood. High fashion refers to the need for freedom and lightness.
Dior and YSL
Chiuri, who is also the standard bearer of a militant fashion idea, explained that she wanted to bring something completely different to the Fall 2021 collection. In other words, she wants to “review fashion as a game”, to “rediscover the same strength, and the same approach of the past”. To achieve this, the designer did not hesitate to deeply review the identity of the brand, contaminating it with animalier and 80s lines. “I decided to make a collection where all the Dior codes are distorted by this interpretation – these are her words to MFF -. Pop is a fashion experience, a sign of freedom. I felt called upon to defend fashion even in its most joyful aspects”.
Vaccarello, for his part, presented too the spring summer 2021 collection. He did so, outside the fashion week calendars, with an event and a film set in Morocco, so dear to Saint Laurent. “I chose to focus on the essence of things – he tells MFF again -. It’s a sign of the times. But I didn’t want anything sad or gloomy, but the search for a slower pace”. You can see it in the leather jumpsuits, in the stiletto heels, in the sexy and 60s elegance. “The desert for me symbolises the search for serenity, for open spaces – he concludes -. The spirit of the collection is kinder”.