COVER STORY | THE DREAM OF TRANSPARENCY
The Philosopher’s leather
Tanning a gauzy leather is not a big deal. Turning it into a niche article, with a solid market identity, is quite an accomplishment perhaps. Will apparition project succeed in that?
Obsession with transparency
Many attempts, over the years, to turn transparent leather into a business chance. There we go with a few of them, till the latest one carried out by Danish ECCO.
Along with Albatros, at one time
Santa Croce sull’Arno, 2002: chemist Stefano Vivaldi patents transparent leather tanning process. Solofra historical tannery “acquires” it for two years. A hit at first, then a stop due to “resilience and softness issues”. Today, though…
Surrounded, yet not alone
Some tanners (from Italy to Brazil) safeguard leather’s value. On the other hand many (too many in fact) sly people blame leather and belittle it, as they “use” it to deceive customers on purpose. A new player joins this neverending match with a two-footed tackle. Thus setting a serious precedent.
Alas! Judges are around in Milan
Stella McCartney wins a counterfeiting case. Yet judges fill the sentence with vegan platitudes as they blame italian manufacturers for their use of leather: “This way they harm the ecofriendly reputation of the English brand”.
Brazilian counter measures
CICB, the tanning Brazilian association, sends out inspectors to detect improper use of leather and eco-friendly leather terms. “Someone does not want to amend his errors”.
Italian tanning industry keeps up
A complicated year, owing to negative economic trends. And export does not give ground. 2016: steady volumes and “slightly decreasing” value for the italian leather industry on international markets. Good news from the USA.
For the first time
The chromium world industry meet up in astana. UNIC takes part in the members’ meeting. An important lead-off step into a sector driven by metallurgy, though essential for leather tanning.
Aiming for the contract to come
Transparency, origin, allowances. The International Association of Tanners issues a vademecum to put on paper parts of the agreement which are currently nebulous. Tips for a reform to be carried out.
The sorrows of the calves
Global production has been decreasing. Likewise the average quality of raw material coming from tanneries has been going down. Bad news from La Baule (Nantes), at the sixth international Veal Meeting, over the critical calf situation.
Corruption scandal strikes JBS
The meat giant is deeply involved in Lava Jato inquiry, the legal case that has been rocking brazilian politics and industry.10,3 billion real (about 3 billion euros) for plea bargaining.
CLeAr close to target
Fashion national and international players gather in Milan at UNIC meeting. Focus on clearness over chemical tests and results: report is coming soon.
Rino Mastrotto Group “expands his lines of credit”, issues a bond to “support his 2017-2020 investment plan” and gathers 10 investors.
Buzz in the distance
Profits coming from high quality products keep speeding up considerably. Yet experts recommend caution. Instability arises from geopolitical situations that affect a sector being lively otherwise.
Fair leather, changeable weather
A sector (luxury) in crisis. So they said. A market segment unable to grow and improve, unless very slowly though. Yet 2017 first quarter shows very good profits for high quality products. As long as they strive for them. Only outside factors may stop this run.
A luxury holding?
Many observers consider it to be the us response to LVMH, Kering and Richemont. Overoptimistic statement though. In fact, the acquisition enhances the premium sector rather than aiming at high quality products.
Better than expected
Italian leather goods industry stands up in 2016. Brilliant performance for leather accessories: +1,4%. Good prospects from Asia. Brexit slows down UK trend. ELGA: the European Alliance.
The leadership of selling prices
Italian footwear performance was “not that brilliant” in 2016. Rising average prices, per pair of shoes, help export (+2,6%), still penalize domestic market again. Russia shows a countertrend, and purchase quality goes down. Veneto is leading.
Waiting for winter boot
Not a great deal of quirkiness is expected next winter. New York buyers focus on bootwear and combat boots. Still being fond of mini bags.
Americans keep up
Valuable appreciation for leather chair seat, presented at high point market. Yet fabric gains ground and market shares (much like it did at the furniture exhibition in milan). Tepid expectations, a lot of chinese visitors around stands, and bright hopes coming from millennials.
Hand in hand with development
Car interior keep pushing and rising. Lear, Adient and Faurecia’s profits confirm such trend. Investments in technology speed up as well, as “automation and computerization enable flexibility”. Leather cut takes place in Serbia (too). Pasubio, for example…
Research & around – Hair as alternative adsorbent, yet… | PEFCR, the trial phase is going to be over in November | TCMTB, photodegradable and removable // in cooperation with Lineapelle | Environment & Sustainability
The ZDHC project – UNIC takes chairmanship of the leather working subgroup
Acque del Chiampo – Project financing for the new purifier
Australia – Every year 800,000 bovines from Australia to China
From Egypt to India – Tannery relocations, between Egypt and Kanpur (two workers have died over there)
Cambodia – On strike?
Mexico – On the way to safety