The markets believe in China‘s recovery and the knock-on effect on luxury accounts. The markets, however, believe a little less in Gucci‘s ability to intercept the possible return of the Asian dragon. Although, trips, first by François-Henry Pinault, Kering‘s number one, and then by Marco Bizzarri, Gucci’s CEO, to Beijing suggest that the double-G brand […]
Argentina’s government has decided to announce a change to the duties currently applied on exported raw hides. It promised to listen to the demands of the meat industry and remove the 10% duty on exported raw hides. The government hasn’t officially published the law yet, but operators of the tanning industry are already on the...
On one end is Trussardi’s earthquake. On the other are Furla’s certainties: it’s not for sale and isn’t planning an IPO. News sources say that Trussardi’s entire BoD has left its post, and even CEO Sebastian Suhl is no longer in the position. The brand’s strategy is now allegedly to restructure and sell. Furla, on the...
Amina Muaddi is trying to replicate with bags the success achieved with shoes: in September, she will launch an extensive leather goods collection. Together with jewellery, this is the category on which the designer is focusing to develop sales. After just five years in business, the eponymous brand closed 2022 at 55 million euros in […]
A white grand piano and someone always singing. The latest edition of Lineapelle (21-23 February) for Gargiulo Leather was an opportunity to celebrate 70 years in business. It was in fact 1953 when Carmine Gargiulo opened the first tanning company, together with his son Antonio, currently at the helm of the company in Casoria (Naples)....
“Travelling light” and vegetable-tanned leather. This is the combination that has declared the winner of Craft the Leather 2023, the ninth edition of the international competition promoted by the Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium. Topping the podium is Dutch designer Wout Speyers of the René Van den Berg Academy (Hoofddorp, The Netherlands). His collection ‘The...
At Cotance table is ICEC, the certification institute for the leather area. With it are LWG, Sustainable Leather Foundation (SLF), Oekotex and Textile Exchange. Together, they all join the work promoted by the association representing the European tanning industry in Brussels in view of the harmonisation of leather traceability schemes. Cotance launched the initiative at […]
“There is a new sheriff in town, would say an old Western film”. In Germany, VDL (the association that represents the nation’s tanning industry) now has the power to file against those misusing the word leather. That means that all the brands and manufacturers selling goods made with alternative materials (most of them plastic-based), but […]
With its trademark discretion, Chanel has impressively increased its trainer offering. While some brands such as Fendi and Gucci are lowering the weight of sportswear in their wallets, focusing on loafers and high heels, Chanel is making the opposite move. It hasn’t given the models a specific name other than ‘trainers’, it doesn’t advertise them,...
A rethinking of the shoe is underway. Recent fashion weeks confirm it. Trainers have entered a tired phase. For men, brands are offering loafers and for women, boots and low heels. This does not mean that we are moving towards a fashion without trainers. But that, perhaps, the monopoly of sportswear is coming to an...
The world’s comeback at Lineapelle 101 was long waited for. And the world, from February 21 to 23, came back to the pavilions of Fieramilano Rho to participate in the most important fair for the leather industry in the world. A stylish return that was certified by the entrance data: 24,574 buyers and operators attended […]
Leather, the excellence (product) of our made-in-Italy industry: its values and false myths, to be rectified. That’s the title of the lecture held on Sunday, February 26th, in Milan by UNIC – Italian Tanneries, as part of the women’s edition of Milano Fashion Week (21/27 February). An important and significant event, focused on offering a space […]
No more blind following of the “vegan = beautiful” concept. The Guardian also changed its approach and warns the public: materials alternative to leather, even with a vegetable-matrix, are in most cases synthetic. We wrote about it last December: mainstream media, those that throughout the years welcomed the (marketing-based) excitement over alternative materials, are finally...
2022 wasn’t a great year for next gen materials. The ones that, too often, play on the fact that they are “like leather”, imitating it and claiming environmental qualities that, in fact, they do not possess. Thus, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that during last years investments in such materials have decreased 53% compared...
They are fashion biggies (in some cases giants). So, like it or not (we like it little), they take a look at what’s moving in the fashion materials market. And, when they have the tools, they invest in it too. But at Kering and Longchamp, they are clear about the difference in leather. As is...
Matthieu Blazy‘s fatal attraction for leather. In the Bottega Veneta’s collection presented six months ago, he showed what was possible with leather. In the most recent one, intended for the autumn-winter 2023-2024 season and presented during Milan fashion week, even socks worn by the models on the catwalk were made of leather: knitted with fine […]
The revival of Gucci, the power dressing of Bottega Veneta, the sobriety of Armani. An intense Milan Fashion Week closed on 27 February, marking out what is working (and what is not) in the world of fashion and luxury. The fashion shows dedicated to the Fall-Winter 2023/24 season have redefined and corroborated the positions of...
A new logistical site for Tod’s. The group owned by the Della Valle family bought 14 hectares of land near the company’s headquarters in Casette d’Ete (Sant’Elpidio a Mare – Marche region). They allegedly also purchased some empty warehouses in the same area. “Now more than ever Italian lifestyle can help businesses, especially small ones […]
The year 2023 really seems to confirm for footwear a rebound towards more classic and elegant solutions. Both in design and (therefore) in the use of sole leather, a protagonist in particular in the high quality segment. A reassuring return to the past that, today, seems to have taken reassuring root, as we witnessed last...
A collection made solely with recycled and sustainable materials. Designed and developed to have the lowest possible carbon footprint and made with a made-to-order approach to avoid overproduction. the last collection of Patrick McDowell, stylist (in photo at the center) that founded the named brand in 2018 after having studied at the Central Saint Martins school in […]
