Lisbon’s footwear segment and Ambitious’ concerns

Lisbon’s footwear segment and Ambitious’ concerns

The war as seen by Portugal. Even if the joint markets of Russia and Ukraine only account for 1% of Portuguese footwear exports, the segment is concerned of potential “second degree” penalizing conditions. For example, towards Germany, Netherlands and Poland, all destinations where the goods transited to end up in Russia. Moreover, there are the...

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UNIC and Cotance: EU raw material exports must be limited

UNIC and Cotance: EU raw material exports must be limited

Desperate times call for desperate measures. That is to say: limiting European exports of raw and semi-finished materials outside the EU borders. The possibility of making a formal request to the European Commission is being considered by UNIC – Conceria Italiane in agreement with Cotance (the European confederation of national trade associations). Both consider it, […]

Between bombs and war economy, Ukraine’s footwear resists

Between bombs and war economy, Ukraine’s footwear resists

Kharkiv, main footwear district of the country, is a war zone. News of the bombing of the footwear plant in Dnipro, gives measure of the war’s intensity. It’s a dramatic scene, but Ukraine’s footwear resists, in its own way, to the crisis caused by the war. In Poland, meanwhile, concerns over the same segment rose due...

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China: Covid stops fashion activities once more (and tension with the USA rises)

China: Covid stops fashion activities once more (and tension with the USA rises)

Covid stops China again. The country’s authorities have imposed lockdowns in many provinces, including the manufacturing one of Dongguan, following the increment of positive cases. Meanwhile, US customs have blocked the containers of sportswear group Li-Ning, effectively firing up the trade war between the two countries. The result? The stock prices of luxury groups, even...

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Beyond sustainability: Consorzio al Vegetale’s Dispositions – Video

Beyond sustainability: Consorzio al Vegetale’s Procedural Guidelines – Video

20 tanneries “all operating in the Tuscan tanning district and joint through the production of the same product categories”. In other words: vegetable tanned hides. An historic green that, recently, had done an additional upgrading to build the Consorzio al Vegetale’s Procedural Guidelines  presented at Lineapelle 99 (22 – 24 February). A document that, thanks […]

Leather It Be, sustainability according to Masini tanning group

Leather It Be, sustainability according to Masini tanning group

Inevitably, the name brings to mind the Beatles. It’s a short way from Let It Be to Leather It Be. Much longer (and more reasoned), and strategic, is the development of the project implemented by the Tuscan tanning district: Masini, Nuova Albora, New Life, Antichi Conciatori and MC. A project that’s called Leather It Be. Leather It Be Leather should be […]

UNIC sounds the alarm: prices out of control and “incalculable”

UNIC sounds the alarm: prices out of control and “incalculable”

The key word is “incalculable”. Because “incalculable” is the consequence of what is currently happening at a geopolitical level. And “incalculable” (most importantly) are the values to put on price tags while this constant and hysteric daily dynamic of uncontrolled (speculative) pricing continues. A situation within which Italy’s tanning industry finds itself in an uncomfortable...

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Tanneries and raw material from Russia and Ukraine: what’s happening?

Tanneries and raw material from Russia and Ukraine: what’s happening?

What is happening to raw material for the tanning segment that used to come from Russia and Ukraine? The war effectively blocked the purchasing capacity of tanneries and traders that are now looking for alternatives. Many companies used to buy raw hides from the two countries and now find themselves in need of an alternative,...

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Trade fairs close well, but Russian instability looms over the market

Trade fairs close well, but Russian instability looms over the market

The last round of trade fairs closes with results that the organisers consider satisfactory. Micam, Mipel and TheOneMilano, held on  March 13-15, brought the Italian fashion proposal for winter 2022/23 to Fieramilano Rho. And they attracted, as the press release states, “attendance equally divided between Italy and abroad”. But Russian instability looms over the market....

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Brussels bans Moscow: no more luxury and fashion goods sold to Russia

Brussels bans Moscow: no more luxury and fashion goods sold to Russia

Europe will no longer sell to Russia luxury goods and fashion accessories whose price exceeds 300 dollars. This was decided on March 15, 2022, by the Council of the European Union, ratifying the indications that emerged during the meeting between European diplomats which took place on Monday, March 14, 2022, behind closed doors. The list […]

Assoconciatori's present and future: interview with Ezio Castellani

Assoconciatori’s present and future: interview with Ezio Castellani

Short- and long-term objectives. Synergies and forecasts for the future. Ezio Castellani, president of Assoconciatori and historical Tuscan tanning entrepreneur, tells us in this interview the goals he has set for himself in the role he has taken on a few months ago. “I accepted this role solely in the interest of the tanneries in […]

Transparent leather once again: on the catwalk with Loewe and embroidered by Khan

Transparent leather once again: on the catwalk with Loewe and embroidered by Khan

In 2017 we called it “the tanning philosopher’s stone” (in photo at the center of our cover at the time). Even then, transparent leather, which had just returned to the catwalk after being created a while back, wasn’t news. But the question we have been asking for the last 5 years is whether this material,...

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Hermès production booster: 2 new leather workshops by 2026

Hermès production booster: 2 new leather workshops by 2026

Despite repeatedly stating the opposite, Hermès is launching a real production booster to meet the growing demand for its bags. The maison has announced plans for two leather goods workshops in France, creating 500 jobs. One will open in 2025, the other in 2026. These two new projects are in addition to the other 3 […]

Okay in 2021, unknown in 2022: data on Italian leather goods

Okay in 2021, unknown in 2022: data on Italian leather goods

Italy’s leather goods’ segment recovered compared to 2020, but is still far from the performance of 2019. According to Assopellettieri, 2021 was okay, but the crisis between Russia and Ukraine threatens to slow the performance during 2022, effectively stopping the segment to reach pre-Covid levels. Specifically, the increments in energy and raw material prices caused...

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Cucinelli, Boss, Tod's: confident about 2022 despite everything

Cucinelli, Boss, Tod’s: confident about 2022 despite everything

Despite everything, confident. Despite the war, tensions over raw materials, supply chains and an uncertain and volatile environment, there is a luxury that expects to grow. For example, the statements by Brunello Cucinelli, Hugo Boss and Tod’s go in this direction. All three of them believe that 2022 will be a year in which business...

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UNIC and ICEC’s ethical claim properly explained in this video

UNIC and ICEC’s ethical claim properly explained in this video

Simple, clear, verifiable, and not misleading. It’s the ethical claim that states the following: “We recover our hides from the food industry”. The claim is promoted by UNIC – Italian Tanneries and is verified by ICEC, the Institute of Quality Certification for the Leather Sector. The claim was the focal point of one of the […]

Paris casual elegance in leather explained in 5 steps

Paris casual elegance in leather explained in 5 steps

Ready for next winter with casual elegance, in leather. The Paris catwalks marked the end of the Autumn-Winter 22/23 fashion show carousel. The French fashion presentations once again highlighted the use of leather, especially in anticipation of the cold season which, in addition to aesthetics, finds in this material an excellent and versatile shelter from...

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Loewe and Chloè: leather celebrates the return to human contact

Loewe and Chloè: leather celebrates the return to human contact

Leather, the material that best describes the uncertain times we are living in. And the desire for contact. “The leather clothes on the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week become a tangible (and sensory) experience” writes Elle looking at Chloè‘s total leather show. While Repubblica, talking about Loewe, another brand that brought a lot of leather...

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Leather in its DNA: Tomasetta’s first collection for Montblanc

Leather in its DNA: Tomasetta’s first collection for Montblanc

“I chose Montblanc because leather is part of its DNA”, said designer Marco Tomasetta, charged by the brand (owned by Richemont) to develop the leather goods’ segment. The new collection is called Meisterstück and is the first one designed by the stylist with experience in Prada, Chloé, Louis Vuitton and, ore recently, as creative director of Givenchy for women and […]