A Men’s fashion worth of a standing ovation. The thirty seconds of applause that celebrated Giorgio Armani‘s creations at the end of his Milan fashion show speak for themselves. They are a symptom of an appreciation (almost reverential) for the designer’s sartorial mastery. Milan Men’s Fashion Week closed (on 17 January 2023) decreeing the prominence of a renewed classicism. Which is not retro but, on the contrary, very modern. What has remained of the casual and sporty style is the comfort, the ample and comfortable shapes, the versatility of the garments, their functionality. Many frills are abandoned in favour of elegant, but still dynamic clothing. Examples of this are the padded leather down jackets presented by both Zegna and Dolce & Gabbana, but also the wide leather trousers with pleats proposed by Fendi and Tod’s, the wide shiny leather trench coats and the shorts with ruffles by JW Anderson.
Standing ovation for Giorgio Armani
The very elegant suits designed by King Giorgio were matched with leather shoes in urban shapes: printed Chelsea boots in alligator, python, or a mix of suede and leather. Also on the catwalk, were a series of winter looks from the Armani Neve label. With après-ski outfits that are also perfect for the city: including high-quality calfskin hiking boots.
In Walter Chiapponi’s AW 23-24 collection, the “Pash Jackets” stand out: outerwear made from leather, crafted in the company’s own workshops. How? With brushing, polishing, coating and waxing, that emphasise and give three-dimensionality to the material. The shoes follow the same material concept, presented in traditional forms: lace-ups and ankle boots in brown or black leather with a stitched sole, but also more informal shoes with a rounded shape and rubber sole.
“I continue to define my idea of modern tailoring,” explains Zegna’s stylistic guide, Alessandro Sartori. Attention to detail and fabrics, tailoring research, the composition of a new elegance. Totally deconstructed garments that focus on monochrome, and in a particular and very contemporary palette: anthracite grey, beige, egg yellow and silver, sand and lilac, chocolate brown, burgundy, red. A triumph of cashmere and an extensive use of leather in the accessories, for which the same skilful use of colours was chosen.
And now Paris
Milan Men’s Fashion Week passes the baton to Paris Men’s Fashion Week 2023 (January 17-22). 48 fashion shows and 33 presentations are expected. Fashion shows by the most renowned maisons are scheduled. There are those who will show live, such as Hermès, Dior Homme, Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton. And others digitally: Thom Browne, Craig Green, Rhude and Celine.
Pictured (from CNMI Instagram’s account): from the left, looks by Armani, JW Anderson and Zegna