Few pieces in the world of fashion can truly claim cult status. The Tabi by Maison Margiela — the shoe that has divided the fashion world, quite literally, since its very first step — is undoubtedly one of them. And today it returns to the spotlight with A Tabi Film, a short movie celebrating its genesis, craftsmanship and cultural significance. Directed by Yuri Ancarani, the film in which Margiela unveils the secrets behind the Tabi is a visual and sensory journey into the beating heart of the OTB-owned maison, where eleven skilled hands bring to life an object that is far more than an accessory. It is a symbol, a statement, a provocation. And now, at last, a story of how it all began.
Margiela reveals the secrets of the Tabi
It was 1988 when Martin Margiela, a young Belgian designer who had once worked in Jean Paul Gaultier’s atelier, presented his first collection at the Café de la Gare in Paris. The setting — minimalist, stripped back, almost spiritual — has since become part of fashion legend. But it was the first steps on the runway that made everything clear. The models walked leaving split footprints on the floor. Those prints marked the arrival of something entirely new: the Tabi. Inspired by traditional Japanese socks, they broke with the dominant aesthetic of the time — maximalist, hyper-decorated — through an essential form that evoked the hoof of a goat. Ambiguous, provocative, impossible to ignore. Since then, the Tabi has become a cult object, adored by fashion lovers and creatives alike, able to transcend eras and styles without ever losing its radical identity.
Anatomy of an icon
Now comes the short film. A Tabi Film is not merely a visual tribute but also an act of transparency. For the first time, Maison Margiela opens the doors of its workshop to reveal every stage of the process: from the preparation of the base to the carving of the wooden mould, from stitching to the final assembly. Each step is entrusted to one of eleven artisans, each with a distinct skillset. The result is a shoe that defies industrialisation, keeping alive the tension between conceptual vision and craftsmanship — a duality that has always defined the founder’s work.
This film also alternates archival footage with contemporary shots, constructing a dialogue between past and present, between Margiela himself and Glenn Martens, the maison’s current creative director. The outcome is almost a sanctuary, where the Tabi emerges as the object of a wider ritual — capable of embodying a vision and standing the test of time.
Photo: Maison Margiela
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