London and New York join the chorus of those who ask to transform the pandemic into an opportunity. BFC and CFDA, that is, the fashion organisations of Great Britain and the United States, signed an appeal aimed at quality and slowness: the fashion system should take advantage of themes created by Coronavirus to abandon fast practices and rediscover those of the top of the range. Which are certainly not based on continuous delivery. In this way, BFC and CFDA are part of the movement started by Giorgio Armani and shared, among others, by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (the National Chamber of Italian Fashion) and by the signatories of the appeal by Dries Van Noten. Namely, that which begs luxury of letting go of the mechanisms of fast fashion.
London and New York join the choir
“We are united in the belief that the fashion system must change, at every level. We are already late – says the press release -, but the consequences of Coronavirus force us to put the rethinking process of our industry at the top of our priorities”. What are the operational tips? “We encourage brands, designers and retailers, accustomed to speed and incessant rhythm, to slow down – explain BFC and CFDA -. For a long time there have been too many deliveries and excessive production. With full warehouses, the system must also review the collections cycle, and be very strategic on products and sales plans”.
Less, but better
For fashion, slowing down has, of course, a sustainable value: because producing less also means producing better. “We advise not to think of more than two collections a year – it is the warning -. It allows you to relate to creativity. While a slower pace offers the opportunity to reduce the stress level of the teams”. The bundling of capsules has confused the ideas for professionals and the public. “There is an obvious misalignment between store delivery and the need of customers: the pace must be closer to that of the seasons”.
The leaders of the two organisations do not live on another planet, they know why fashion has reached certain rhythms. Nonetheless, “while understanding the commercial need for pre-collections”, they advise returning to the “original purpose” of high fashion, that is “to offer consumers beautiful collections that represent the ethos of each brand”. The slowdown affects everyone : “When we will return to physical events, brands will present the collections in the fashion capitals and during fashion weeks calendars – concludes the appeal -, so as to avoid buyers and journalists from being constantly on the road”.
In the image, from londonfashionweek.co.uk, a fashion show held during London Fashion Week
- According to Armani, luxury has been declining since before CRV: “Let’s slow down!”
- Brands and designers in revolt: “No fast-fashion, let’s go back to seasons”