In search of simplicity. The catwalks in Paris demonstrate the need to return to the essential and to purity. Hermès show was the perfect example of it. As well as presentations by Yohji Yamamoto, Gabriela Hearst and Givenchy. Common goal: to return to quality without frills. In this, leather finds an elective space, as a precious, durable, tangible material. A comfortable and reassuring material, because it maintains its characteristics over time, and it never goes out of style.
Leather and purity
With Hermès excellence and a very high quality of the product were on the catwalk. Its SS21 collection unveiled on October 3 at Paris Tennis Club represented (so far) the high point of this PFW. Clean, sinuous and harmonious lines to draw on the bodies soft lambskin, cashmere and impalpable fabrics. Refined coats and dusters, side-tied dresses, minimalist fisherman jackets and low-waisted skirts in smooth leather. A very wide use of fine leathers for clothes and outerwear.
A balance of black and white leather. Gabriela Hearst presents in Paris a collection made of simplicity and positivity. The first part of the show is in black and white leather, with puff-shoulder dresses with a rigorous cut. The tassel is used for suits that combine the jacket with a pleated skirt, tops tied at the breast and two-tone dresses. In leather sandals too, and woven leather belts, with an artisan imprint.
Quality without frills
Matthew Williams made his debut at the helm of Givenchy with a collection suspended between formal and super casual. A lot of experimentation in the use of the materials used: cotton, technical taffeta and jersey. But also denim with paints and resins (to have “vinyl” effects) and crocodile leather for skirts, outerwear and accessories. Among the bags, the new unisex cut-out in different versions, and the G chains, where the letter G is carved into a chain to become a handle as if it were a new logo.
The proposal by Isabel Marant is more colourful, but this one too is full of leather creations. Rompers, oversized trousers, shorts, and dresses with a shoulder strap. A very 80s style, in which pink, blue and lavender stood out. Texan boots, glitter and comfortable shapes to be worn in everyday life.
In the images, some of Hermès proposals from its Instagram profile
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