From 23 to 27 September, in the heart of Milan, the eighth edition of Lineapelle Designers Edition transformed Piazza Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa and Spazio Lineapelle into an urban stage devoted to creativity. Not merely a runway, but a crucible of ideas where leather became language, substance and vision. Seventeen international designers and brands animated the event with shows, installations and artistic crossovers, celebrating craftsmanship and the expressive power of this material. Nine collections for nine visions: here we recount the shows we witnessed, narratives that spoke of identity, memory, rebellion and rebirth — each with a distinctive and powerful voice.
Nine collections, nine visions
Maragno opened with “Double Skin”, a poetic meditation on identity. Fluid, enveloping garments in warm shades culminated in a powerful finale: models undressed to reveal bodysuits evoking naked flesh — a symbolic gesture exposing the soul beneath the surface. Alberto Zambelli’s “Deco-n-struct” built a bridge between fashion and architecture. Inspired by Le Corbusier, it played with right angles, macro-ruche and hand-sculpted leathers, balancing rigour with sensuality. Tuxedo shirts and oversized bermuda shorts became elements of a primal femininity. Anton Giulio Grande, in contrast, paid tribute to Frida Kahlo with a theatrical, impassioned collection. Suede, calf hair, fringing and crystals intertwined across 22 looks, celebrating art as refuge and resistance. Floral headpieces and a jacket emblazoned with Frida’s portrait opened a visually striking show.
Leather as rebellion
Marco Rambaldi staged “Gioia Radicale”, a hymn to human connection and nostalgia. Patchwork, embroidery and worn leather told urban fables where vulnerability became power. The Femminella Bag and leather trousers emerged as symbols of a fashion that embraces and endures. Lorenzo Seghezzi debuted with “Interludio”, a sustainable collection crafted from reclaimed leathers and surplus fabrics. Each piece, handmade with feathers, wings and unexpected details, told of fashion as identity and community. 1972 DESA presented “Tulips of Hope”, inspired by tulips blooming in frost. Minimalist elegance, silky fabrics and leather accessories expressed beauty born of resilience, with garments unfolding like petals in a vibrant, poetic palette.
A profound exploration
Mastewal’s “Gidiré” celebrated Harari culture. Made in Ethiopia, the collection fused local leather with eco-sustainable textiles, reinterpreting traditional dress through a contemporary lens. Its architectural lines conveyed protection and strength. Chronos Corps’ “Scorie” imagined a post-consumer future, where garments became relics through sharp cuts and dystopian accessories, offering a vision that called for reconstruction with awareness. Leather emerged as living matter, memory and transformation. Closing the event, LEONARDOVALENTINI and Laboratorio Riciclo Pelle presented “Spectres of the Sunset Boulevard”, a rock-inflected, ethical and daring collection. Lineapelle Designers Edition 2025 was more than a series of fashion shows: it was an immersive experience, a manifesto of style and thought. Leather, the undisputed protagonist, told stories of bodies, cultures and visions. And we were there to hear them.
