“Leather is not just a material: it conveys a mood”. These are the words used by Balenciaga creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli when speaking about leather and its extensive use since the very first collection he designed for the maison last October — and again in the most recent one, presented during the Paris menswear calendar in January. The Italian designer discussed it with Brain Matter alongside fashion editor and stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson.
Why so much leather?
Following the presentation of the collection, Brain Matter sat down with Piccioli to talk about his work for Balenciaga. At a certain point, the conversation turned to leather. Gabriella Karefa-Johnson addressed the designer directly, saying: “I really love the leather work in this collection. There are leather waistcoats, leather T-shirts, leather hoodies, leather dresses. It’s sexy and there’s definitely an element of eroticism, but the sensuality takes nothing away from the beauty. Why do you enjoy working so much with leather in ready-to-wear? And why did it have to take on so many forms in this collection?”
Much more than “just a material”
Here is Pierpaolo Piccioli’s reply: “For me, leather has always been more than just a material. It conveys a mood, a state of mind. I’m drawn to the way it allows me to build structures, to think almost architecturally, shaping volume in an instinctive rather than rigid way. At the same time, it gives the silhouette a certain emotional weight. There’s something protective about it, but also something deeply tactile. The way it adheres to the body, the way it moves with you. It creates a sense of strength and intimacy at the same time, and that’s what keeps bringing me back to it. And then, it’s so Balenciaga!”
Leather? “It’s so Balenciaga!”
Already in his debut collection for Balenciaga (The Heartbeat, set for Spring/Summer 2026), Piccioli had reinterpreted the house’s codes by introducing sophisticated, structured leather elements, including collarless, sleeveless leather jackets worn like capes (source: Reuters). Garments that highlight artisanal craftsmanship, blending the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga with a contemporary approach. In the second collection, Piccioli pushed leather even further. Now we understand why.
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