“Sophisticated simplicity” at its finest through the use of exclusive materials. Leather takes centre stage: handcrafted, both in the treatment and the new approach to the iconic weave. Original in the choice of colours, shapes and applications. A convincing debut for Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta for Fall Winter 2022/23. It is a debut characterised by sophisticated materials and techniques but essential in its aesthetics due to the craftsmanship of the utmost uniqueness. A “craftsmanship in motion“, as Blazy himself defines it. Elegant smooth leathers, crinkled varnishes, shiny and reflective surfaces are the basis for clothing, bags and shoes.
A new approach to weaving
The first Bottega Veneta look to hit the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week was a programmatic manifesto (similar to the one you see in the photo, taken from the Vicenza-based label’s website). Basically: a white tank top is worn over a pair of jeans that were not jeans. In other words: they were leather trousers printed with a hyper-realistic denim effect. Closing “the circle”: a woven shoulder bag, a symbol of the collection’s essential pragmatism. It is (also) on the new approach to weaving that Blazy’s debut was played out. This is demonstrated by the new cult bag Kalimero (pictured): leather woven by hand as a single piece, without stitching, “closed” by a knot that defines the shoulder strap.
All the leather of Blazy
Leather was used for wide full skirts with dresses made of thin fringes. And, also, the jumpsuits and dresses, trousers and tailored suits. Not to mention the accessories, the proper focus of the brand. Sack bags, buckets and the ever-present Hobo model in woven leather with jewel handles. Then: rectangular pouches in quilted leather with round studs and clutches in various sizes.
Craftsmanship in motion
“Bottega Veneta is pragmatic in essence because it is a brand founded on leather goods”, Matthieu Blazy explains in a note. “The fact that it is a brand that specialises so much in bags makes Bottega Veneta very focused on movement, on going somewhere. Basically, there’s the idea of “craft in motion”. The style above fashion in its timelessness. And that’s part of the silent power of Bottega Veneta”.
In essentiality, the use of colour is everything. The colour palette ranges from lemon yellow to purple for bell skirts. It goes from vivid red to deep brown for suits and trousers. Orange becomes an accent, ironic and intrusive, like green and silver, in the shoes. There is a total black look for the evening, with an immoderate use of sequins.