Different forms, presentations, languages. With all the new rules dictated by anti-Covid security measures, the first digital Paris Fashion Week did not disappoint expectations in its own way. In other words, each brand has been able to find an original way to show the world their men’s collections for summer 2021 and, in some cases, women’s previews too. The Parisian event ended on Monday, July 13, 2020, leaves the virtual limelight to the Milanese one, that begins on Tuesday, July 14, 2020, to end on the 17th with Gucci live streaming marathon.
Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week was an exploit of creativity, where the creative genius of the designers showed itself in its essence: the product. Without the glitz of fashion shows, without breathtaking locations and front rows, all eyes were on garments, accessories and footwear. And among the materials used to give shape to the volcanic inventiveness of designers, leather has stood out as never before. Yes, because the presence of leathers, now that the looks are shown immaterially (in photos and videos), makes even more the difference.
The Men Spring-Summer 2021 and Women Pre-collection collection was presented in the form of an archive-box (physically received by a very select group of professionals), in which looks and accessories became modular 3D models. With complete patterns, fabric references, color palettes and weaving studies to allow them to realistically evaluate the garments. Transformable looks, interchangeable between male and female, as in the case of the patchwork leather jacket, or of braided tops. Textures create new volumes: leather is woven like wool, or woven like wicker (center in the photo). Craftsmanship is told in its creative elaboration.
A retro style with a nostalgic taste, was the one presented by Lanvin in a very summery pastel color palette. Capes, suits and silk blouses were accompanied by a refined combination of accessories: gloves, shoes, turban hats, sunglasses. Sand-coloured moccasins, small reptile leather handbags, two-tone suede jackets, rigid trunks and soft clutches to be carried by hand. Red or light blue leather gloves as points of colour on blue leather trench coats, as 1950s divas.
Best of, archive pieces, reinterpretations of successful garments. Rick Owens presented his Spring-Summer 2021 collection calling it “Phlegethon” and collecting it in a mix of old creations and flashes of novelties. The knitwear recovered from Spring-Summer 2018 alternated with the double-layer leather knit tank tops from the first one-off in 2012. A dynamic and extravagant presentation, on dizzying platform boots (on the left in the photo) or glossy leather biker boots.
To present the Dior Homme collection for Spring-Summer 2021, designer Kim Jones drew inspiration from Ghanaian artist Amoako Boafo. The energy, colours and vividness of his paintings are transferred to the clothes of the men’s collection in a mix between art and modernity. Sweaters superimposed between stripes and bright patterns are combined with pants and bermudas, also made with leather (on the right in the photo), often with a corset belt tight at the waist. There is no shortage of leather jackets, both short and long models, in brown or black. At their feet, in addition to the famous Dior Air Jordan sneakers, amphibians and sporty laced sandals too.