Two episodes, two global brands, one problem repeating itself. First it was Prada’s turn. Which during Milan Men’s Fashion Week had presented a pair of sandals that recalled Indian chappals, triggering a reaction from Maharashtra authorities. Then, in August, Willy Chavarria and Adidas launched “Oaxaca” slip-ons, inspired by Mexican huarache sandals, without involving local communities. In both cases, the companies apologized and promised dialogue. But the point remains: fashion appropriates without permission, looking to local cultures as an archive to draw inspiration from.
Fashion appropriates without permission
In August, Willy Chavarria unveiled a sneaker inspired by Mexican huaraches and christened “Oaxaca,” in collaboration with Adidas. The model, shown at the Puerto Rico Museum of Art, immediately drew criticism for using the name of the Mexican state, known for its handcrafted leather sandals. The problem? These shoe, in addition to being inspired by local footwear, was manufactured in China, without any involvement of local artisans. Mexican institutions immediately reacted: President Claudia Sheinbaum, for example, denounced the behavior of big companies, accusing them of exploiting ideas and products from indigenous communities. Only last week Adidas made mea culpa by initiating a dialogue with Oaxaca representatives, while Chavarria issued an apology via WWD, acknowledging that it had failed to respect the cultural value of the name and promising concrete actions to remedy it.
Prada and the Indian precedent
Just a few months earlier Prada had also stumbled into a similar situation. The brand had presented in Milan a pair of sandals with a design very similar to Kolhapuri chappals, traditional Indian shoes that have been handmade for centuries. The ring detail around the big toe and the leather band immediately attracted attention, and the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce asked the brand to publicly acknowledge the inspiration and collaborate with local artisans. On its end, Prada responded by admitting the reference to traditional patterns in Maharashtra and Karnataka, saying it would initiate a dialogue with the craft communities and be in contact with Indian authorities. An important step, but one that came only after controversy. Two different cases, but a common message: cultural appropriation keeps resurfacing as a structural flaw in the fashion system, which still struggles to transform inspiration into authentic collaboration.
Photo Prada and Willy Chavarria
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