From Pitti to Milan: the month of menswear fashion is now in full swing. As the Florentine event (scheduled from 17 to 20 June) draws to a close, the curtain rises on the four-day Milan Men’s Fashion Week. A total of 81 events are on the calendar, including fashion presentations and exhibitions. As was the case with the previous edition, this year’s format remains scaled down. Several major brands — notably Gucci and Fendi — have opted instead for co-ed shows in September. Yet there are still many solid confirmations, with labels such as Prada, Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Brunello Cucinelli all showing. Meanwhile, the 108th edition of Pitti Uomo wraps up with strong attendance figures and standout collections by its guest designers.
From Pitti to Milan
The guest brand at this edition of Pitti Uomo was Homme Plissé Issey Miyake. This Japanese label’s menswear show, held at the Villa Medicea della Petraia, was preceded by a moving exhibition on pleating — a signature motif of the maison. The collection, titled Amid Impasto of Horizons, takes inspiration from Italian landscapes and culture, offering a reflective journey through Issey Miyake’s design heritage. Somewhere between fashion and art, the garments resemble living paintings, with brushstroke-like splashes of colour and relaxed silhouettes. Accessories and details evoke creativity and freedom, with versatile pieces designed for everyday wear that explore the concept of fit — a tribute to individuality and the deep connection between body, clothing and place.
The other guest designers
On Thursday 19 June, it was the turn of Tuscan designer Niccolò Pasqualetti. On the rooftop of the Teatro del Maggio, he unveiled a collection blending tailoring precision with workwear inspirations. Playing with the concept of freedom, Pasqualetti introduced feminine elements into the male wardrobe — a narrative approach to fashion from a designer who previously worked with Jonathan Anderson, and who, in the latest industry news, is rumoured to be joining Marni in the place of Francesco Risso. Closing the evening was Korean label Post archive faction, which presented a collection that deconstructed traditional menswear tailoring through the lens of fluctuation and movement.
Milan begins
Meanwhile, Milan Men’s Fashion Week kicked off on Friday. Running until 24 June, the event offers a snapshot of the state of contemporary menswear. Opening the schedule are Brunello Cucinelli, Antonio Marras and Setchu. Over the weekend, the spotlight will turn to Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Prada, as well as Church’s, Bally and Tod’s. As always, Armani’s main line will close the week. “These menswear shows come at a transitional moment that could become an opportunity”, said Carlo Capasa, President of CNMI, in an interview with MF Fashion. The general feeling is that attention is already shifting towards the September debuts, when Demna will unveil his first collection for Gucci, Dario Vitale for Versace, and Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta.
Photos: Homme Plissé and Pasqualetti
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