The era of simplification continues. Lineapelle Fashion Committee presented the trends for winter season 2021/22 at the opening day of A New Point Of View (September 22-23, Fieramilano Rho). It is precisely the trends that tell us that fashion will move under the sign of slowness. The mood for next winter is “The Era of Simplifying 2 – Slow Is The New Hot”. The need for simplification introduced in the past season continues, which once again brings with it many implications and readings. We are in a historical moment in which “it becomes a priority to rethink essential things, to put the human and its rhythms back at the centre of attention”, as explained by Antonella Bertagnin, coordinator of Lineapelle Fashion Committee. Stylistic trends are the expression of everything that happens in the world and, this time more than ever, they are driven by a positive approach: optimism.
Colours in the era of simplification
To simplify is to subtract the obvious and add the meaning and the signifier. It is not superficiality, but depth and complexity. For style, it translates into monochrome and fluidity between masculine and feminine. The two archetypes of clothing (man-woman) come together, and monochrome acts as an element of harmony. Monochrome means synthesis. Lineapelle Fashion Committee has chosen five colour lines with incursions of unpredictability. They are references for “transitional” colour, not defined but made of movements and shades.
Man and technology
Technology is essential to bring man and his emotions back at the centre. Softness and tactile appearance are irreplaceable, now more than ever. The body becomes a communication instrument, as well as of perception. Closed at home, we have become accustomed to comfort: “Softness is a sensation that we do not want to abandon”, continues Antonella Bertagnin. Tactility, therefore, becomes even more important. On the materials, this translates into embossed (even on fine leathers), couplings, furs carved with motifs and graphics, sheepskin, printed splits, matelassé, puffy and soft nappa. The pleated effect is back again, especially on leather goods.
The era of simplification also thrives on absolute novelties. A new trend is that of anemonia, a term that defines nostalgia for something that has never been experienced. Staying at home, the archives have become incredible resources, and this has left an important imprint on the stylistic choices. We move towards the imperfection of handmade and vintage. Precious details with a rough effect. The new metals have different degrees of brilliance, and are also combined with each other: opacified, blackened, soiled. Imperfections become elegant through workmanship. Wrinkled printed splits, with touches and shades on the surface, sparkles on even male splits. Writing splits as a reference to vintage style.
Optimism will be expressed through light. Among the news, smooth glazed nappa. Lurex motifs on shiny fabrics and small parts with amber and tortoiseshell tones. For hides, metals become soft: whether they are rough or smooth, they will be built on pearly ones instead of blades. The basics are enriched with unpredictable elements, expression of a liberation of creativity and contemporaneity. Drawings, hand made prints graphics. “Solarised” with an incursion of fluorescent, floral motifs, thicknesses to be reinterpreted.