Classic outside, sneaker inside: Prada’s moccasins show that the shoe has changed and cannot go back

According to Hypebae, a very popular and fashion-oriented Chinese fashion magazine, the moccasin recently presented by Prada is “unorthodox” (we should translate “heterodox”, but we are decided with “unritual”). Why? The design of the model has a clear classic inspiration, the upper is made with black calfskin and the sole, when the rubber sole is seen as a sign of the times, is in leather. To break the inertia of a gentleman shoe is the logo in the heel area, where the brand is inserted in a blue and white frame that we would expect from a Prada Linea Rossa model.

Nothing will be like before anymore.

The e-commerce portal Luisaviaroma, for those visiting the page of the Prada moccasin, recommends also to look at a Versace model. The pattern is the same: traditional line, leather upper, leather sole. And a huge street-art style graphics on the side. The theme rebounded from the Lineapelle96 pavilions last February. The sneaker boom, perhaps, really has stopped. But the chain of footwear not only has to deal with a share of sport-shoe large and solid, but also with a classic shoe that cannot escape the influence of the sneaker. The fact that brands such as Church’s launch of a special projects for sport-shoe are just one side of the phenomenon. The other is that shapes and characteristics of the same classic shoe are also transformed.

What leather does it take

“Our footwear customers ask us for very soft leathers, more than in the past – says Antonio Cioffi, from the CoTiNa tannery in the Solofra area-. It is the heritage of the sport-shoe. The shoe must be comfortable, good to accompany the foot along the whole day’s engagement”. But the push can also be seen in the stylistic choices. Do not be mislead  by the two examples mentioned at the beginning (the Prada and Versace models) made in black leather: “Smaller volumes are made for traditional colors – says Anna Spurek, from Benericetti‘s sales -, now they ask us for very fashion leathers, even because, for women, footwear is combined with leather goods, which are increasingly bold on the wave of streetwear”.

The expansive motion

“It’s a positive moment for those producing shoes with rubber soles – says Paolo Manuzzi, Vibram global general manager – and this is also confirmed by the fact that many companies that produce classic shoes have been able to readjust”. The sport-shoe, in short, is coming out of its own banks and is overwhelming what is around: “The trend of sneakers is now  that of embracing an increasingly large audience – is the comment from the company Malaspina -. It is no longer just young people but also a more mature target”.


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