Leather from the beginning to the end. Paris Fashion Week ended on Monday, March 3, with Miu Miu, Chanel and Louis Vuitton fashion shows. The autumn-winter 2020 collections presented on the closing day confirmed the constant presence of leather, for clothing, accessories and footwear. The repechage from the past is still strong: from Elizabethan forms to the charm of the 1920s, from the bon ton of the 1940s to the rebellion of the 1970s. All revised in a modern key. A journey through time during which leather is the compass tracing the route.
Pirate leather boots, black with brown lapel. Then: jodhpurs pants, boleros and jockey jackets (always in leather). The style is cheerful and modern, inspired by the equestrian world. For Chanel the dominant colours are black and white, with interventions of pale green, light gray and pink. The woman is energetic and romantic, a free and carefree Amazon. But Virginie Viard also looks for comfort. For example, proposing trousers with automatic buttons on the sides “for a faster and more modern gesture in dressing”.
Loose skirts, with multi-material ruffles and contrasting bodices reminiscent of a biker suit (in leather, too). Fur-trimmed leather trench coats, embroidered boleros in leather and wool, and top with ruffled leather, alternated with sports ski jackets. Louis Vuitton mixes different styles and eras, and carves out its fundamental space in the world of accessories. Metal effect clutch, such as shields and armours with the logo following the style. Maxi or mini-bag in monogram canvas. A brand new large brown leather bowling bag that can be worn by hand.
Wool jackets and sweaters, for Miu Miu, are tightened at the waist by long, thin leather belts. Trench coats, coats and bon ton dresses are in black leather. Leather minidresses with jewel decorations match the perfect femme fatale leather gloves. At the feet, high sandals with ankle laces, alternated with amphibians with pointed studs.
Alexander McQueen presented “a brave, bold, heroic woman”. It does this through “clothes that know how to express a sense of protection, safety and comfort”. Tailored cuts are combined with craftsmanship, such as embroidery and patchwork. Whether it’s a trouser suit in Prince of Wales fabric or a leather trench coat. Or again: leather dresses with applied lace details.
Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a gender-fluid collection, where male outfits were interspersed with female elements. Black & white aviator shearling jackets on wide black leather skirts. Transparent sweaters, black leather bodices and floral designs with a romantic appeal. The predominant colour was black, with flashes of red or white. Simple lines and essential constructions define the looks. Among the accessories, the bags of Valentino Garavani Atelier Bag project are the protagonists: delicate constructions of overlapping monochromatic leather petals.
Blazers, trench coats and printed dresses falling flared. And they accompany, emphasising them, accessories. Wide leather belts and long gloves (in leather too) up to the elbow, adding elegance and prestige. The woman proposed by Givenchy has a retro charm, but is at the same time contemporary. At her feet she has statuesque shoes tied at the ankle by ties. While the bags are discreet.
Hedi Slimane dedicates CELINE’s 20/21 winter collection to the bohemian spirit of the 70s. The models (both men and women) wear trench coats and capes in soft brown suede. Then leather skirts with buttons and voluminous shearling coats. And again: tight jackets and bomber jackets in striped or patchwork leather. Sandals with platform, silver pointe ankle boots and thigh high boots in suede paraded on the feet.
In a walkway submerged by water (to remember the rising levels of the oceans) Balenciaga presented a collection with a “disturbing” charm. For example, showing long leather coats like Matrix and skirts (again, in leather) both straight and pleated on the catwalk. And it also offered gym-glam and biker suits in total leather. Sporty is perfectly mixed with a statuesque classicism. For accessories, a great return of the Classic Balenciaga Bag which, in its twentieth anniversary, becomes Neo Classic.
The designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski makes a sophisticated research of materials to express all the craftsmanship savoir-faire of the brand, and its innovative manufacturing mission. Coats with caramelised leathers and plissé skirts in very soft leather. Trousers, dresses, coats, jackets and sleeveless jackets are made of leather. The rider’s touch (emblem of the brand) emerges in the footwear: tall riding boots are combined with narrow and thin coloured belts.
- What an amazing leather show at the Paris Fashion Week
- Fashion shows say “leather”, what changes for tanneries?