Paris: Louis Vuitton’s pacifist (and sometimes cunning) fantasy

Paris: Louis Vuitton's pacifist (and sometimes cunning) fantasy

Louis Vuitton opened Paris Fashion Week (18-23 June) on Tuesday, with a mammoth show. In the House of UNESCO, the pacifist anthem of Pharrell Williams, creative director of the French brand’s men’s lines, was on stage (in the photo, from the fashion show video that you can watch here). Le Monde Est à Vous: this is the title of the spring/summer 2025 collection that starts from the idea of a journey, as an example of knowledge and coexistence between different individuals who choose to work together for a better world. An injection of confidence in perfect Pharrell style who, for this new chapter, has grounded a collection that is tailored but, at the same time, sellable.

A formal, then unbuttoned man

The opening looks play on the thread of black. The citations are many, and the sartorial references recall the formality typical of pilots’ uniforms and diplomats’ suits. A dandy yet contemporary traveller who unbuttons as he goes, leaving room for leather jackets and trousers, shiny effect dresses, transparent shirts, striped t-shirts and “LV Airways” branded suits. An evidently decorative approach that becomes apparent in the process. The double-breasted formality gradually gives way to shiny bomber jackets and fur coats, rhinestone-studded sunglasses, airplane-wing brooches, Damier-patterned suits, bomber jackets with a print (later pixelated) of a satellite image of the continents, and pyjama-style suits.

Louis Vuitton’s heavy artillery

It is evident that the travel theme is inspired by Louis Vuitton’s history. Just as it is evident that there is no work by subtraction. In accessories, in fact, the French fashion house drops the heavy artillery. In addition to sending leather trunks – already shown in the last collection – down the catwalk, Pharrell presents a series of bags, from iconic models such as the Speedy to new proposals. Always in leather, small and large carried together, square, rectangular, mini, round, reminiscent of footballs, telescope-shaped, but also backpacks and large logoed shoppers.

Cultural label

Where is the point of union? In this new collection, Pharrell tries to give LV the label of a cultural brand (given the multiple references). But the French fashion house’s latest prodigy is in the image and likeness of the very star system that Pharrell Williams knows so well. It’s a collection that’s handcrafted on the trends of the moment. It is glamorous and desirable. It tries to sit at the negotiation table and looks out to an idea of luxury that few can afford. Ça va sans dire.

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