Well, one would have to say that it is at the very least bizarre for a designer to present his winter collection not only off the calendar, but two months after his rivals’ fashion shows. Instead, Hedi Slimane does it and, apparently, he does it well. Because his Celine stands out in the luxury scene as a brand that is stubborn, self-confident and, most important of all, successful. In his looks, there is an idea of elegance and sensuality that the public likes. And they like it a lot.
The review that Repubblica offers of Celine’s FW collection is very indicative. Because it represents an endorsement of Slimane’s latest work, both in terms of presentation (online and, as we said, fashionably late) and stylistic choices (where leather recurs in footwear, bags and clothing). And because it represents, more generally, approval for the entire direction Slimane has given the brand. He has focused on a clear imagery: a “luxury daywear anchored in the Seventies and alternating with very short and skimpy evening dresses”. And he has turned what detractors called a lack of originality into a strength: “Season after season, the designer has given shape to that world of revised and modified basics that he began to theorise about in his days as creative director of Saint Laurent. Today, it is the quintessence of French chic”. Sales figures already proved him right. Now observers do too.