What will we remember from Paris shows? We have selected the five “best of leather” that marked the recently concluded French fashion week. Five guidelines for the next Spring-Summer 2022 season that see leather as the protagonist, and confirm it as the basic element of what we can, without a shadow of a doubt, define as absolute luxury.
1 > Top Crop
The uncovered belly is the fashion of the moment, and has been for a couple of seasons. But at Paris fashion shows, it has become a constant. Even Hermès showed black leather tops and short t-shirts. The minimalist appeal of smooth leather ennobles this type of garment. We have seen it as a criss-crossed band for Givenchy and Courrèges. Or in a patchwork version with buckles for Acne Studios. Balmain proposes a kind of bra with cups and laces crossed behind the neck, while in Ludovic de Saint Sernin fashion show, men also walked the runway in leather tops made of delicate weaves.
2 > Military boots
Footwear is now cross season. Gritty shoes perfect for any season and any combination. Whether worn on Dior’s silk suit, or on mini-dresses and hot pants as in the Balmain show, which proposed a padded and quilted version.
3 > Rouches
Sinuous curves of leather on outerwear, trousers, shorts and accessories. A sign of femininity for Givenchy’s vest-jackets, an effect of softness and comfort on Hermès’ Bermuda shorts. At Paris fashion shows, Loewe also intervened with ruffles on denim and sequined dresses. Isabel Marant plays on the effect of the pleats of iridescent leather on overalls and bulky bags.
4 > Purple
Dresses, jackets, trench coats, suits, not forgetting accessories of course. Purple is a colour with a strong character and seems to have a major role to play in the 2022 summer. We find it on bags (both micro and maxi) by Valentino, on belts/purses by Issey Miyake, on jackets and skirts designed by Lanvin. And even on Isabel Marant’s large iridescent leather trousers.
5 > Destructured
Clothes, especially leather ones, seem to be taken apart and put back together, leaving flaps of skin uncovered and playing with overlaps. Contemporary armours that use the structure of leather to push towards new experiments. Balmain did it with sexy dresses made up of bands, and Rochas with leather jackets with bare shoulders. And again: Rokh with evolutions of the classic mackintosh in an evening dress, and the undisputed master Rick Owens with sculpture-dresses for super heroines.
Images from fashionnetwork.com; from left: Lanvin, Givenchy, Acne Studios